Tortoni Café in Buenos Aires

The visitor and lover of cities -especially those old, historic ones- must find a refuge where he can rest beneath a shade, and there is nothing cooler than the shade of cafés. A place to seek warmth for the soul, a sanctuary for the traveler’s weary spirit.

Throughout my journeys in cities around the world and my footsteps upon their pavements, I have been cautious not to miss the opportunity to explore their most renowned cafés, to discover their pleasure, the taste of wonder they can infuse into my memory and soul. Each café, with its unique secrets, what it offers of food, drink, sometimes music or entertainment, becomes a source of joy and a refuge for wandering souls.

In Damascus, the Arab love affair endures; the city is intertwined with my heart. I have passed through cafés like “Al-Hijaz”, “Havana”, “Al-Noufara”, yet none holds the same enduring place as “Al-Rawda” a timeless haven in the northern part of the city, standing alongside Damascus’s history, witnessing countless events, and welcoming the countless visitors like me who trace its door, settle on its straw and antique wooden seats, and pour their remaining dreams with a cup of coffee, a glass of water from the tap, or the fragrant puff of their shisha, seeking relief from the cold exile.

In Vienna, there is the “Dommühl Café”, near the emperor’s palace, where emperors’ guests once gathered for sweets and coffee, and which served as a confectioner for the palace, providing endless desserts. Then there is “Schwarzenberg Café”, a favorite haunt of Beethoven and other musicians, located close to the opera house. “Central Café”, originally a bank building, turned into a café and frequented by Marxists conducting meetings on the eve of the Bolshevik Revolution; among them was Trotsky, a chess lover and revolutionary thinker.

Vienna’s “Hofburg” (Hafekah), the oldest and most popular café, was a haven for youth and revolutionary movements, bohemians, hippies, and radicals alike. In Madrid, the “Gran Café de Xijón”, as well as cafés like “Café de Oriente”, “Manuela”, and “Lari”, the oldest, dating back to 1839, had their own stories, some serving as dens for spies, hubs of political schemes, social scandals, and even pioneering innovations such as the first telephone reservation system in 1889.

In Casablanca and Rabat, I frequented modest cafés, simply connected to the lives of their inhabitants and creative spirit. Similarly, in Cairo, a multitude of cafés across various districts have a presence in literature, television, and cinema. Many of these cafés recorded history, immortalized in books, literature, like novels of “Najeeb Mahfouz” the Nobel-winning Egyptian’s writer “Central Café”, originally a bank building, turned into a café and frequented by Marxists conducting meetings on the eve of the Bolshevik Revolution; among them was Trotsky, a chess lover and revolutionary thinker. and art as they witnessed social movements, resistance against colonization, and independence struggles, “Havana”, “Al-Rawda”, and “Al-Hijaz” in Damascus, “Dolce Vita”, “L’Express ”, “Wimpy” and “Modka” in Beirut, “Resh”, “Al Feshaway” and “Abdullah” in Cairo, “Al- Asima” and “Al-Central” in Amman, and “Shahbandar”, “Hassan Ajami”, “Al-Parliament” and “Um Kalthoum”.

In Paris, where cafés form a deep-seated tradition, an ancient legacy, these establishments spread from there to European countries and those colonized by France. Wherever a city exists, it is never without a café, be it “Café de Paris” or “Café de la Paix”. Every quarter of Paris boasts its own café, but among the most iconic is “Le Fouquet’s”, founded by “Louis Fouquet” in 1899, sitting proudly at the crossroads of the “Champs-Élysées” and “George V” Avenues. It remains a glamorous rendezvous for heads of state, artists, intellectuals, and wealthy visitors. It offers a spellbinding atmosphere, whether in summer or winter.

“La Daurée”, established by the French writer “Ernest La Durée” in 1862, stands among the most luxurious, famed for its colorful French “macarons”. My favorite, however, is “Le Flore”, in Saint Germain, the haunt of philosophers, painters, writers, journalists, and critics. Since 1994, the café has awarded an annual literary prize in homage to its storied past. Nearby, the “Montparnasse” cafés, which gave birth to the existentialist school, where “Jean-Paul Sartre” and “Simone de Beauvoir” once gathered, are also dear to my heart. “Les Deux Magots”, associated with surrealist movements and other artistic schools, has hosted many distinguished writers who penned influential volumes and painted immortal masterpieces. In Paris, there is the Hemingway Café, or the Mobassan Café, or the Victor Hugo Café; in Havana, the Cuban capital, I visited the Hemingway “Floridita” bar and its legendary cocktail, which remains an emblem and sole symbol of Havana, my beloved city.

Historical texts record that cafés first emerged in the Islamic world, specifically within the Moorish lands of Al-Andalus in the fifteenth century AD. Subsequently, they spread across Europe, especially in London, which turned cafés into unofficial negotiation tables, sites where political discussions unfolded away from formal protocols, fostering diplomatic relations between Britain and the Ottoman Empire.

During my recent visit to Argentina, a week ago, Juin 18th 2025, my goal was to see that historic café situated at 825 Avenida de Mayo, the very Tortoni Café in Buenos Aires is among the oldest and most renowned historic cafes in the city, and a symbol of its cultural and literary heritage. Founded in 1858 and located in San Telmo, the historic and vibrant neighborhood, it boasts an elegant interior reflecting a classical and historic style, with intricate details from Buenos Aires golden era. It has always been the perfect place to enjoy a quiet cup of coffee, indulge in traditional desserts, and explore the city’s literary and artistic history. It was a favored destination for writers, artists, intellectuals, politicians, and journalists, an establishment that could encapsulate Argentina’s entire history. Its offerings include excellent coffee varieties, traditional sweets, especially the famous Tortoni, and an ambiance steeped in authentic Buenos Aires culture.

The café also hosted countless literary meetings and seminars over the years, flourishing as a hub of intellectual debate, creative expression, book signings, film screenings, and cultural dialogues within the Argentine capital. Notables from around the world, including Marxists, socialists, and free thinkers from France, Italy, and Latin America, congregated there, enriching the café’s cultural soul during a time of resistance, independence movements, and collective struggle for freedom.

Tortoni wasn’t merely a historic spot; it was and remains a living symbol of literary and intellectual exchange. The stories and encounters within its walls played a crucial role in shaping Argentina’s cultural landscape, impacting literature and art, inspiring generations of creators who drew muse and inspiration from its atmosphere. Poets who spent time in exile, painters shedding tears or signatures, filmmakers weaving scenes of their dreams, and musicians whose fingers were cut for singing “Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina”, all found in Tortoni a gathering place for their artistry.

Throughout its long history, the café hosted legendary figures, including:
— Julio Cortázar, one of Latin America’s literary giants, often debating art and literature within its walls. — Eduardo Galeano, the celebrated writer and journalist, a regular visitor whose works like “Memory of Fire” echo ideas of freedom and justice.
— Ricardo Güiraldes, a pioneering author known for capturing Argentine rural life, frequently seen in the café.

And among political personalities:
— Eva Perón, the iconic figure of social justice and cultural influence, who met many in the café, especially during political movements and celebrations.
— Juan Domingo Perón, who held a strong presence in Argentina’s history and was known to frequent spots like Tortoni.
— Basilio Llorente, a Minister of Culture and Literature— who often visited during critical periods.

Moreover, global artists and intellectuals who crossed Argentina’s borders and visited the café include:
— Pablo Picasso, the legendary Spanish artist, who visited Buenos Aires in the 1920s and engaged with Argentine art scenes.
— Francisco Townsend, a poet and artist, one of its most prominent regulars.
— Jorge Saramago, the Nobel-winning Portuguese writer, who came to Buenos Aires and frequented cultural venues such as Tortoni. — Derek Walcott, the Caribbean poet and playwright, who visited Buenos Aires and participated in cultural events, often returning to Tortoni.

Notable Events and Stories:
— Struggles for freedom during periods of repression, when dictatorships and military coups threatened artistic expression, Tortoni was a clandestine meeting space for writers and intellectuals to discuss liberty and resistance.
— National identity debates, during Peron’s era, it served as a dynamic forum for political discourse, social justice, and cultural nationalism, inspiring activists and unions alike.
— Key moments of political resistance, it became a hub for exchanging ideas supporting independence movements in Latin America and for safeguarding civil liberties against authoritarian rule, embodying intellectual defiance.

The Founders and Management:
— Emilio Tortoni, the true founder, launched the café in 1858. An Italian immigrant, he chose a strategic location to foster cultural and intellectual growth. His family-maintained control for much of the café’s history, ensuring its ambiance and heritage endured.
— In the 20th century, the café transitioned into a protected cultural monument, with efforts from local authorities and organizations to preserve its historic character.

Today, it operates as a private establishment managed by a cultural non-profit, dedicated to maintaining its legacy while serving patrons with minimal modern updates, sometimes hosting tango nights, literary readings, or cultural exhibitions. In Literature and Film: — Tortoni appears as a symbolic venue in stories emphasizing Buenos Aires’ intellectual scene, in cinematic documentaries about Argentinian culture, and in fictional portrayals capturing its nostalgic essence, reflecting its role as a nexus of history and artistic inspiration.

Its Role in Political and Social Movements:
— During times of crisis, Tortoni was a clandestine space where writers, poets, and activists convened to plan resistance, debate political strategies, and nurture the movement for social justice, independence, and democracy. It’s a symbol of intellectual resilience and cultural defiance against oppression.

Today and Beyond:
Despite not yet being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Tortoni remains one of Argentina’s most vital cultural landmarks, an enduring symbol of Argentina’s rich literary, artistic, and political history, cherished and preserved as part of the nation’s collective identity. Visiting this place is like stepping into the heart of its historical soul, where poetry, politics, and passion have forever intertwined. To enter the doors of Tortoni Café, one must often queue, sometimes stretching down the street, due to its immense popularity among locals and tourists alike. Yet, this wait is a small price to pay; for a place of such historic significance, a touch of patience is a modest sacrifice for the joy that comes with it.

Inside, there are two halls, one large and the other more intimate, where traditional tango performances are held multiple times a day. Visitors spend hours immersed in the enchanting rhythms of Argentine music and the passionate dance that is world-famous. The café’s prices are modest and accessible to everyone. You can enjoy a breakfast, indulge in sweets with coffee or tea, or sip on a hot chocolate, the crowd’s favorite, served in the café’s signature style. I regretted not asking if they serve “mate,” the most popular beverage across Latin America, especially in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Brazil. I glimpsed a woman sipping it from a cup made from a gourd, with a metallic straw, after it was brewed with yerba mate leaves, native to Uruguay, cultivated by Spaniards during colonial times in swampy regions, then spreading across the continent, becoming a communal drink shared among friends and acquaintances who drink from the same calabash and straw. That mascot of the ritual is perhaps Lionel Messi, who often carries his mate thermos in hand before stepping onto the pitch.

The café, occupying two floors of a building designed with Parisian architecture, was redesigned in the late 19th century by architect Alejandro Christopher. Here, you can enjoy a late lunch or dinner, featuring exquisite Argentine beef, accompanied by Malbec red wine, or sample an array of sandwiches, or the crispy, delicious churros with chocolate. Yet, regardless of the time, you always feel enveloped in Argentine warmth, graced by friendly smiles, surrounded by history. Walls adorned with paintings, some unfinished, pages from old newspapers, and documentary photographs of notable figures who passed through, leave a trace of the past echoing in every corner. Statues of writers, poets, and artists, those who cast their shadows in the depths of this venerable place, stand as guardians in the bustling corners. Few cafés hold a place in history like Tortoni, its doors never closing since its inception over 167 years ago. Each month, between 45,000 and 50,000 visitors cross its threshold, drawn by its legendary aura. Many distinguished official visitors, heads of state, ministers, and world leaders, have graced its tables: Juan Carlos, Hillary Clinton, and others. The great Borges, despite never being awarded the Nobel, had a dedicated corner where he would sit in the afternoons, enjoying his coffee after becoming blind. It’s said that Einstein also visited and sat here, along with the towering Spanish poet Federico García Lorca, and the renowned French-Argentine artist Carlos Gardel, who was credited with globalizing the tango. Among its many esteemed visitors was the legendary footballer Diego Maradona, who was a frequent guest.

Ultimately, Tortoni’s fame has transcended boundaries; it is not only the oldest but arguably the most renowned café in Latin America, and among top ten the most famous in the entire world, standing as a monument to the city’s deep artistic, cultural, and historical roots. From the whispers of history to the vibrant hum of the present, cafés are the silent witnesses to human stories, places where the mundane turns profound, and the fleeting moment can become immortal. They are the lungs of urban life, exhaling inspiration, comfort, and countless tales that shape the fabric of cultural identity.

Cafés serve as more than gathering spots; they are the beating hearts of cities, the cradle of creativity, reflection, and revolution, spaces where the spirit of the age is brewed and poured. Cafés are not merely places; they are an intoxicating blend of diverse aromas. Thomas Wolfe, an American novelist and short story writer, once pondered the concentrated, compressed mix of scents that waft from Parisian cafés, the aroma of drinks, the ancient French tobacco, the scent emanating from strips of bacon and black Parisian coffee, alongside the fragrance of women and wine. In these words, we see that cafés symbolize a portal to the collective consciousness, a refuge for thinkers, artists, and rebels alike, places where history whispers and dreams take shape.

And finally, I say that all cafes have the color of joy!

Este artículo forma parte de las prácticas realizadas por los alumnos del Máster en Periodismo de Viajes de la School of Travel Journalism.