GISELE RODRÍGUEZ
Explore the heart of Finland, where you’ll discover a blue labyrinth of lakes amidst an expanse of forests and hills that resemble a vast carpet of snow. Join us as we visit the Finnish Lake Region.
Despite Finland’s sub-zero temperatures, winter here offers a breathtaking experience. Boasting over 188,000 lakes, this Nordic country is comprised of 10% water, renowned for being among the cleanest in the world. These pristine waters contribute to some of the most beautiful Nordic landscapes.
We will embark on a journey to explore the lake region and uncover the essence of the Finnish people in the heart of their country. With its stunning natural beauty and the unique character of its inhabitants, Finland stands out as one of the most technologically advanced nations globally. Its lifestyle significantly contributes to its reputation as the happiest country in the world. Leading the way in critical global values such as equality and civility, even its roads seem straight out of a fairy tale.
As our plane touched down on the snowy runway at Helsinki’s airport, I was ready for a winter adventure. During this harsh season, I set out to discover various regions of this Nordic gem. Early one morning in the Finnish winter, I joined a group of journalists and bloggers, embarking on this journey, guided by fate. With just a backpack, I made my way to the central station, ready to head to my first destination.
By Train to North Karelia
Transportation in Finland is highly efficient, with the train network connecting all parts of the country. On the first day of the trip, I traveled to Joensuu, the capital of the North Karelia region in the far east of Finland. The journey took around four hours, and a first-class ticket cost just over 50 euros. The train offers very comfortable seats and amenities such as power outlets and a small café on board, where you can enjoy complimentary tea, coffee, and water.
Located 430 km from Helsinki, Joensuu serves as the gateway to the stunning region of Karelia. The city’s name, which means “river mouth,” reflects its location at the mouth of the Pielisjoki River, where it flows into Lake Pyhäselkä. Known as a vibrant college town rich in culture, Joensuu welcomed me with snow falling on a cold winter night. I spent my first night at the modern Sokos Kimmel Original Hotel, a classic Finnish establishment that blends natural materials such as wood, leather, and stone in its luxurious decor. The next day’s itinerary began early with a guided tour to explore the city’s culture and sights.
My first impression of Joensuu, as snow fell gently before my eyes, was that of a charming small town with a picturesque central square. In the milder seasons, you can stroll along the river, but in winter, it transforms into a scene straight out of a Finnish postcard, with local skaters taking to the ice. A must-visit is Taitokortteli, a vibrant neighborhood offering crafts, culture, and gastronomy. Here, you can find unique souvenirs, jewelry, and a variety of craft materials. The abundance of materials for winter clothing caught my eye, including wonderfully soft wool yarns, cotton yarns, and colorful rug fabrics. To fully experience the Karelian spirit and flavor, we headed to the banks of the Pielisjoki River to savor the delicacies at Aittaranta restaurant.
Adventure in the Koli Peaks
Koli National Park is one of Finland’s most unique parks, spanning the towns of Joensuu, Lieksa, and Kontiolahti in the North Karelia region. Featuring lush forests, lakes, and stunning Nordic landscapes, it embodies the essence of Finnish nature.
Our journey continued with a stay in the heart of the national park at Break Sokos Hotel Koli, situated near the Koli peaks. The hotel offers breathtaking views of Lake Pielinen, which, in winter, resembles a vast snowy carpet stretching through dense forests. Just an hour’s drive from Joensuu, Break Sokos Hotel Koli boasts 82 rooms with panoramic views of the park. The hotel features a spa with various saunas, eight swimming pools—two of which are outdoor with park views—and three restaurants serving Karelian cuisine. Beyond relaxation and nature appreciation, the hotel offers numerous activities. Guests can ski, rent snowshoes, cycle, fish, rent boats, row, and explore the park on snowshoes, with adventures starting right at the doorstep.
Adventure in the Koli Summits
And so, I embarked on this exhilarating challenge! Known as snowshoeing, I explored much of the park on a cold, sub-zero morning. The thermometer read -5 degrees Celsius when we woke up. Before setting out, the group and I received thermal overalls to shield us from the cold, followed by the necessary equipment for our feet.
I relished the tranquility of the route and pushed myself on the slopes to reach the summit of Ukko-Koli (347 meters), one of the highest points in southern Finland. The view was truly breathtaking, and the sense of well-being was so immediate that I quickly forgot my fear of heights. After a day filled with activities, I relaxed at the spa and indulged in some delicious food.
Swimming in a Frozen Lake
The trip continues as I bid farewell to the national park and head towards another region of the country: South Savonia, near the border with Russia. This is where Finland’s largest lake, Lake Saimaa, is located. Covering 4,400 square kilometers, it is considered the fifth largest lake in Europe. In the Saimaa region, we visited Järvisydän Hotel and Spa Resort, the most ecological spa in Finland, recently awarded the official ecological seal of the Nordic countries. “Järvisydän” translates to “heart of the lake.”
This luxurious spa hotel is perfect for relaxing in the midst of nature, situated in a secluded location in eastern Finland on a vast property offering various types of accommodation. The hotel is distinguished by its high luxury standards and unique concept. It utilizes solar energy as its primary energy source for six months of the year, from April to the end of September, and even into October, depending on sunlight availability. Consequently, 75% of the spa’s energy needs are met by solar power.
The resort offers an ideal structure for guests to stay and engage in various activities. It features a restaurant, a spa complex, and immediate access to the lake, perfect for enjoyment in both the warm months and winter. The accommodations are designed to immerse you in nature and provide the tranquility of the forest for ultimate relaxation. The resort offers a variety of lodging options, from panoramic suites with private jacuzzis and stunning forest views to spacious villas.
I stayed in a panoramic suite located at the top of Palanut Vuori (Burnt Mountain). The room was spacious and cozy, featuring large panoramic windows overlooking the forest. It included a queen-sized bed for an unforgettable stay, a mini kitchen, and an internal sauna. The highlight of the room was the private outdoor jacuzzi, where I experienced a unique relaxation session. Despite the ambient temperature ranging between -5 and -8 degrees Celsius, the view of the snow-covered trees stretching for kilometers was indescribable.
And What Better Occasion to Experience Life on a Finnish lake?
The resort offers a variety of activities for visitors, including a spa area constructed amidst rocks and natural materials, and heated ecologically through a combination of lake water, geothermal, and solar energy. Overlooking Lake Saimaa, the spa features six saunas. One unique highlight is the “Uppotukki-sauna” (submerged log sauna), where you lie on a large bench and listen to the whisper of the enormous stone hearth.
The sauna temperature is approximately 70°C. The other saunas range in temperature from 40°C to 85°C. After enjoying the saunas, you can take a dip in one of the five indoor pools with a temperature of +31°C, or, like I did, brave one of the two outdoor pools. These pools are filled with fresh water from Lake Saimaa, which varies in temperature depending on the season. During my visit in the middle of the Finnish winter, it felt like the temperature was below zero.
In winter, Finnish tradition includes a particularly brisk pastime: relaxing in a sauna followed by a plunge into a frozen lake. While the practice is considered not only therapeutic but also beneficial for both body and mind, I confess I found it quite challenging. Although it’s reputed to be beneficial, I struggled to immerse myself beyond my knees due to the numbing cold.
Later in the day, I dined at Solitary, a restaurant within the Kuru Resort complex, known for its refined Finnish cuisine. The restaurant offers a surprise menu featuring high-quality craftsmanship and seasonal ingredients. According to the chef and owner, Remi Trémouille, who has cooked in many of the world’s most prestigious restaurants, Solitary’s cuisine blends the best flavors of Finland with international influences: “We use primarily locally sourced ingredients, complemented by international herbs and spices to enhance the dishes.”
Discover Lake Saimaa
Traveling to southeastern Finland reveals a range of unique experiences and activities, all centered around the majestic Lake Saimaa. Our itinerary continued with a visit to the Harjun Portti Holiday Resort, situated on the shores of Lake Saimaa, where you can enjoy a variety of scenic walks.
I decided to try some winter activities, including fat biking, which involves cycling on specially designed bikes with oversized wheels. These bikes, with their wider and more robust tires, are built to handle snow and rough terrain. As an avid cyclist, I initially thought I’d handle it with the same ease as riding a bicycle in Brazil.
However, I quickly learned that fat biking is quite different. Although the fat bike provides excellent traction, control, and versatility on snow, I found it challenging to maneuver through the wintry conditions. Despite having the ideal equipment for the adventure, I experienced a minor fall during my expedition through the forest and across a frozen lake. By the end of the tour, I had to admit my lack of experience and difficulty, pushing the bike to the destination with a smile and a laugh.
Sleep like a Seal
Continuing our exploration of Finland’s largest lake, we visited the historic Hotel Kruunupuisto in Punkaharju. This accommodation is situated in one of Finland’s cleanest areas, renowned for having the best air quality in the country. Due to this advantage, the hotel once served as a treatment center for individuals with respiratory issues. If you’re traveling through the country and need a place to relax, this hotel offers not only fresh air but also a unique experience.
One intriguing activity introduced by our guide was “sleeping like a seal.” We were taken to a large terrace outside the hotel, featuring a wooden floor with views of the snow-covered forest and frozen Lake Saimaa. The sight of the lake, resembling a vast expanse ready for skating, was incredibly soothing.
I lay down on one of the lounge chairs, covered by a sleeping bag that enveloped me up to my head, leaving only my face exposed. This marked the beginning of a 30-minute relaxation and well-being session. During this time, I closed my eyes and focused on calm breathing. The experience was surprisingly refreshing; it’s amazing how a brief period of immersion in nature can provide such instant relaxation. This is definitely something worth incorporating into your daily routine.
Float on Ice
When I traveled to the Finnish lake region in winter, I anticipated experiencing freezing, sub-zero temperatures. One particularly exhilarating activity I tried was ice floating. If you enjoy a bit of adventure, this is definitely worth experiencing. I traveled to the village of Oravi, situated along the main waterways connecting Savonlinna, Varkaus, Heinävesi, and Kuopio. Oravi serves as the gateway to Linnansaari National Park and draws visitors year-round. With a population of just 150, the town relies on seasonal activities to sustain itself through spring, summer, fall, and winter.
In Oravi, we were invited to try something both wild and fun: floating on the river amidst the ice. We donned neoprene suits, which are waterproof and provide thermal comfort while enhancing buoyancy. As we ventured into the water, my initial reaction was a mix of astonishment and relief—“I’m floating, I’m not sinking!”
The experience was truly instantaneous. The neoprene suits prevent you from sinking, which can make movement somewhat challenging— I felt like a seal! It was incredibly fun and relaxing to float and enjoy the natural beauty of the Oravi River.
To conclude the day, we visited Korpi Bistro café in Savonlinna to sample the region’s famous Karelian pasties, or “Karelian cakes.” These local delicacies, named after Karelia, were a highlight of our culinary journey. The flavor was exceptional, especially after our entire group of journalists had participated in a hands-on workshop with local Finns to learn about the production process. The result? A delightful, savory treat.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Savonlinna and took the opportunity to explore some of the city’s attractions. With a population of around 30,000, Savonlinna is a major tourist destination near Lake Saimaa. A visit to the medieval Olavinlinna Castle is a must. For a cozy end to this memorable adventure, I stayed at the Original Sokos Hotel Seurahuone, located in the heart of Savonlinna.