By Sandra Gilch
I look outside the window. The green landscape is running away from me. With my gaze I am chasing the green fields and trees from the train. This feels like the road to something new, not only physically. I try to capture the cow cattle to send to my father (who is a cow farmer) – but the train moves too fast. My photos are turning out blurry, so I decide to simply look out the window and follow the scenery with my eyes.
Seamus Heaney writes in his poem Postscript about the beautiful details in nature in the County Clare, Galway, which I would explore in the following days.
And some time make the time to drive out west
Into County Clare, along the Flaggy Shore,
In September or October, when the wind
And the light are working off each other…
Making Galway my home away from home
I was on the train from Dublin to Galway and I realized that I didn’t plan anything for the nine days that awaited me on the west coast of Ireland. I only knew where I would stay at and that was all. This journey will prove me the magic of living from one moment to the other. The first evening, I took a little walk. I sat beside the water at the Shannon bridge to watch the sunset. To watch the sunset and to admire the swans passing through the reflections of the sun in the water. I assumed that right there was the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean. I wasn’t sure. At least, it was the beginning of the Wild Atlantic Way.
On the West coast of the beautiful island of Ireland, nature lovers can discover many impressing hiking treks alongside cliffs of high altitude. Around a 1.5 half hour bus drive south of Galway, there is the most famous of the Irish cliffs: The Cliffs of Moher. Heading to the cliffs from Galway, your drive will take you either through the uniquely stoney land of the Burren or the magical Wild Atlantic Way alongside the ocean. I decided to start my 9-days-trip with ticking off my list already the must-do no.1. That day, our bus driver drew a circle on the map.
Driving through the region of the Burren, we were in the middle of landscapes full of stones and stones. To see it from close, we stopped at one of Ireland’s most iconic archaeological monuments, situated on the high Burren limestone plateau: the 5800- year-old Poulnabrone Dolmen. It is surrounded by the Flacio-Karst landscape which is the result of glacial activity and rainwater dissolution features. It counts as a portal tomb. That means it consists of two large portal stones standing on either side of an entrance capped with a massive sloping capstone. At some unknown time in the past, another stone of the tomb collapsed. It now lies on the ground at the rear of the monument.
I was so amazed by the landscapes of the Burren and the view from the bus, that I almost forgot that the highlight of the day was just about to come. It was cloudy and rainy that day. However, arriving at our destination, it luckily seemed to stop raining for a bit. Gone with the wind, we all headed west from the bus stop and soon we reached the edge of the cliffs. As it was still foggy, we weren’t able to see the whole length of the cliffs of 12.8 kilometres. We were amazed out of our wits about the view from 214 metres above the Atlantic Ocean. Due to the weather conditions, it wasn’t possible to see the cliffs from a boat that day. But still, none could get enough from the view over the cliffs. From the past O’Brien’s tower, you can get close with the edges of the cliffs. They even appeared in a Harry Potter movie, serving as the location for the scene where Harry and Dumbledore visit a cave by the sea to find one of Voldemort’s horcruxes. Also, they were part of the movie classic The Princess Bride. A walk along the edge of Ireland lets you take in the beautiful, rugged coastline and Atlantic Ocean views.
The Cliffs of Moher have developed to a meaningful tourist attraction delivering unique impressions for all our senses. During the time of their formation between 313 and 326 million years ago, a river dumped sand, silt and clay into an ancient marine basin. Over millions of years, the sediments collecting at the mouth of this ancient delta were compacted and lithified into the sedimentary strata preserved in the nowexposed cliffs.
All along the blue
Heading back to Galway, our authentic Irish bus driver took us right along the Wild Atlantic Way. He had grown up there himself and has always enjoyed to go out to the beach and watch the waves, when he had been a child himself and now together with his children. While we were driving, I was listening on repeat to All along the Wild Atlantic Way (2016) by Aoife Scott. The song captures the magic and romantic feelings the landscapes of Ireland evoke, in a quite nostalgic way. It’s about meaningful memories from the past and how the singer cannot wait to relive those experiences.
When will you bring me, my love
I’m counting down the days,
When will you bring me, my love
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
I’m 60 years in Nova Scotia,
Waiting for the day,
The day that we’re returning homeward,
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
When will you bring me, my love
I’m counting down the days,
When will you bring me, my love
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
Remember when we went to Bunbeg
The shipwreck in the bay,
We sat and watched the north west sunset,
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
The time we climbed Croagh Patrick,
And nearly went astray,
Our legs were aching, falling off us,
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
When will you bring me, my love
I’m counting down the days,
When will you bring me, my love
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
The time that we went skinny dippin’
Down in Derrynea,
Smelling Galway’s salted ocean
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
The day that we heard Willie Clancy,
Piping in Malbay
We sang and danced til the early morning,
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
When will you bring me, my love
I’m counting down the days,
When will you bring me, my love
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
I’d watch you catch the fish near Dingle,
As currachs rowed away,
I’d wait for you with the half-light gloaming,
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
Cycling back from The Black Ball Head,
Skin salty from the spray
The ocean looming out beyond us,
All along The Wild Atlantic Way
Having been soaked into the song, I got surprised by the sudden stop our driver makes. In the middle of nowhere, he parked the bus. It was in the middle of nowhere and at the same time in the middle of everything. All I could see was blue. The sky and the ocean. Oh, and then there were the grey rocks that prevented the people from running into the waves but forced them to take every step very consciously. The bus driver himself sat on the rocks right next to the road. Taking care of the bus, I guess. Or maybe it was just his favourite rock to sit on.
What remains from a fire?
The next morning, I got thirsty of discovering the nature outside the town. Next to the River Corrib, which is the shortest river of Europe, you will not only find rich flora and fauna but also meaningful history. By foot, the castle I wanted to visit was an hour away from my hostel. As I had nothing else planned that day and the sun shone brightly on the sky, I decided to take a walk there. It would lead me along narrow roads, through wide landscapes, fields with horses and small villages.
The magnificent ruin of the Menlo Castle sits in a scenic location on the banks of the River Corrib. The well-known local landmark is hidden from any streets, surrounded by forest, the riverside walk following the old Galway to Clifden railway line, and a university on the other side of the river. This sounds like an imagined movie setting, but it is real.
The history of the castle goes back into the 16th century. It was home to the Blake family who lived there from 1600 to 1910. As the richest family in Galway in 1592 they owned extensive property in the counties of Mayo, Clare and Galway. During their time at Menlo Castle the Blakes invited villagers to the grounds of the castle for the ‘Maying in Menlo’ festival. In the late 17th century, the family added a Jacobean mansion to the old tower house. The family castle’s history culminates in a tragedy: on the night of July 26 in 1910, while Lord Valentine and Lady Blake were in Dublin, a fire engulfed the castle. It took the lives of their invalid daughter, Miss Eleanor, and two maids. The building was gutted and all contents destroyed. Only the ivy-covered walls, that can still be seen today, were left standing.
When I reached the castle, I was amazed by the wonderful plants growing around the walls of the building. I could walk inside the ruin without any problem. I took some stairs upwards to sit on a stone which seemed to have been a window once. My feet needed a rest. Barely a second passed by without me feeling the wind blowing through my hair. And it felt magnificent – refreshing, liberating. I felt the wind in my hair and the cold stones I sat on, I heard the river floating and the birds singing in canon.
Sheepy Hills
After having discovered the Burren region south of Galway as well as the closer surroundings of the city, it’s time for a bus discovery ride to the landscapes north of Galway. Those are determined by beautiful green hills, lakes in between, and impressing castles and abbeys along the road every now and then. I took again one of the offered bus trips by Galway Tour Company, which started right in front of my hostel. We made our first photo stop in the stunning Inagh Valley. The valleys of Connemara are broad and long, adding this unbelievable spark of infinity to your view.
Arriving in Cong Village, located in the heart of Ireland’s Lake District, you can go for a little walk, greet donkeys and feed ducks on the way. Meanwhile you breath in the fresh air created by a harmony of the river and the trees in the Cong Woods – one of Ireland’s largest native forests. If you know the classical movie ‘The Quiet Man’ you may also be familiar with the ruins of Cong Abbey. Its ruins and other parts of the Cong Village served as a backdrop for the 1952 movie by John Ford. The Augustinian Abbey dates back to the early 12th century and is one of the best examples of medieval ecclesiastical architecture in Ireland.
We drove on to Kylemore Abbey which is known as Ireland’s most romantic castle. You can either visit the neo-Gothic castle and the Victorian gardens from inside or just enjoy the stunning view, which I did. I sat next to the magnificent lake which draws the Kilmore Abbey into the green and hilly scenery. Sitting there and eating my pizza I bought at the little kiosk, I watched children playing and people walking towards the castle and back to their cars. If that’s how life can be, I never want to die. I want to feel forever this infinite peace, this tranquillity of nature bonded with the warmth of people enjoying history and culture.
Leaving Kylemore, we travelled north to the breathtaking Killary Harbour, which is Ireland’s only fjord. Taking in the sights of the magnificent sunken valley we saw just a glimpse of the 16-kilometre-long and 45-metres-deep fjord. We set off through the wild valleys of north Connemara, a region called Joyce Country, named after the old Irish clan that once ruled it. Here we stopped at the shores of Lough Na Fooey, another glacial lake surrounded by hills. The moment I entered this scenery, I felt magic inside and outside of me. I will remember this as my magic moment of the whole trip.
All travellers got off the bus, finding their way through the tiny hills to the lake. Sheep were raging around; far and wide I couldn’t see any fence marking their territory. So, maybe their territory is everywhere? The whole country? I only saw green and reflections of the green in the lake. If heaven was a place on earth, it would be right there. I didn’t dare to get too close to the pretty animals. Also, the bus driver didn’t want to bother them any longer. We continued our drive back to Galway, on that early misty evening of August.
Silverstrand in Golden Sunlight
A film scene: A young woman sits on a rock at the edge of the beach, away from the main action, reading a book. In the sea, a girl and her mother try to deal with the cold of the water but only manage to do so to a very limited extent. The girl also tries everything to get their dog Taylor to swim with them, but he prefers to explore the surroundings and runs to the woman on the rock. From a distance, the two call out his name and try to lure him with “treaty”. But Taylor is more interested in the stranger’s bag. He lets himself be stroked briefly and goes back into the water. Now an old man with a beard and a walking stick comes walking from afar. The mother quickly runs out of the water to keep her dog from running to the man.
Who was that woman sitting on the rock? It was me. Sitting there, I thought to myself that this right there was the most beautiful place I’ve been to in my life until then. I remember how I closed my eyes to manifest that I will come back there one day and show this miracle of a place to my children I may have in the future. It’s a place where the peacefulness of this earth meet the peacefulness of mankind.
When you’re lucky enough to travel Ireland in summer and even luckier to be blessed with sun during your trip, you shouldn’t miss Silverstrand Beach, which is only a 30- minute bus ride away from Galway centre. Sand and soft stones will pamper your feet. Stepping into the ocean you will be amazed by the crystal-clear water of the Atlantic. The sun will set in the direction where the green fields meet the ocean. In the opposite direction, there is a great rock jutting out into the ocean. Thanks to the rain, Irish beaches are other than mediterranean ones surrounded by green. You can choose between grass, sand and stones to lay on. The waves are sometimes stronger, sometimes weaker. But no matter how loudly they move, it always looks and sounds wonderful when they hit the rocks on the shore. The wind may carry you into the illusion of the sun being not strong enough to burn your skin.
However, as soon as the sun set, I recognized how my face has been burnt during the day. The sunburn faded after some days – the memories of that day will last forever.
From History to Present
Coming back to Galway in the evening you will get the feeling of returning home. The town gives everyone the sense of belonging and sparkles of kind and beautiful people. You may come across more tourists than residents: the city counts around 85 thousand inhabitants and attracts over 2.7 million tourists a year (out of which 1 million are Irish travellers). A famous attraction for them is the Galway City Museum, which teaches us that tradition does not mean preserving ashes but keeping the flame alight. It’s a place where Irish culture tells stories through words and objects. The collections comprise an overview of Galway’s history including the backgrounds of the conflicts with Great Britain in the beginning of the 20th century. In 1913, Ireland was part of the United Kingdom, ruled from London. Huge changes were happening in the following decade: The Easter Rising of 1916, the War of Independence (1919-1921) and the Civil War (1922-1923) resulted in twenty-six of the thirty-two counties of Ireland becoming independent, known today as the Irish Free State. The complex ackgrounds of these conflicts must be understood. Thus, the museum’s mission is “to be a centre of learning, inspiration, engagement & enrichment for all our visitors by collecting, preserving & displaying the material heritage of Galway.”
The Irish history has been determined by intense political changes which might also evoke personal ones. In the poem The Wayfarer (1916) one of the Irish revolutionary leaders Patrick Pearse reflects on the fleeting beauty of life’s journey at a moment of decisive personal and political change.
The beauty of the world hath made me sad,
This beauty that will pass;
Sometimes my heart hath shaken with great joy
To see a leaping squirrel in a tree,
Or a red lady-bird upon a stalk,
Or little rabbits in a field at evening,
Lit by a slanting sun,
Or some green hill where shadows drifted by
Some quiet hill where mountainy man hath sown
And soon would reap; near to the gate of Heaven;
Or children with bare feet upon the sands
Of some ebbed sea, or playing on the streets
Of little towns in Connacht,
Things young and happy.
And then my heart hath told me:
These will pass,
Will pass and change, will die and be no more,
Things bright and green, things young and happy;
And I have gone upon my way
Sorrowful.
Pearse wrote these lines shortly before his execution, seeking to come to terms with his impending death. Things will pass and change, will die and be no more not only fits to the transience of things in nature and also to us human beings. What we can do is to be aware of the changes, to make use of every moment and to memorize history in a proper way. There are no places that carry more history and memory – not even museums – than cemeteries. Walking through Galway, I discovered the Bohemore Cemetery. I entered it with no expectation. The way the graves were decorated with flowers and quotes moved me and made me cry. I didn’t know any of the dead personally. However, looking at the graves I realized what of a loving people the Irish are.
Galway City Strolls
The Roman-Catholic cathedral in the centre of Galway is a prominent landmark on the city skyline. The cathedral dome measures a height of 44.2 metres. Built between 1958 and 1965, entirely out of local limestone, it was officially named the Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and St Nicholas. The entrance to the cathedral is free to the public. When I entered, I fell in love with the architecture of the dome and the pillars, which reflect a Renaissance style. Other features, including the rose windows and mosaics, echo the broad tradition of Christian art.
Strolling around the Eyre Square in the centre of Galway, you may end up sitting ona bench next to Patrick Joseph Conroy, the most important Irish-language writer of his generation, who was later known as Pádraic Ó Conaire. Or at least, you can sit next to a bronze replica of Ó Conaire’s memorial state. The memorial state was built after his death in 1928 by Dublin sculptor Albert Power, initiated by Gaelic League. The original statue was in the Eyre Square of Galway from 1935 to 1999. For safety reasons, it has been moved to the Galway City Museum. Since 2017 a bronze replica of the original statue can be found at the same spot the original once was, making sure to remember Ó Conaire with dignity.
Ó Conaire’s works are originally written in Irish language. Irish, also known as Gaelic, is one of the oldest written and historical languages in the world. It was seen for the first time in Ogham form in the fifth century. During Christian era, Irish was spreading through Scotland, the west coast of Britain and the Isle of Mann. Although it was significantly suppressed by the modern British English, Gaelic can be found in up to 4,500 books, on television, radio, newspapers, magazines and on the internet. Even until today, it is the language of the community in Gaeltacht regions: Ulster in the North, Connacht in the middle and Munster in the South of the Irish West coast. Béal an Uaignis is the original title of a poignant short story written in Irish by Pádraic Ó Conaire; translated into English it means The Mouth of Loneliness. It’s about a character finding solace in listening to music – possibly traditional or natural sounds in the countryside – emphasizing how the Irish landscape nurtures and echoes inner emotions.
Drochmhargadh a bhí ann cinnte agus is muide atá thíos leis, an gadaí bradach. Dhún mé na súile. D’fhan mé gan cor a chur díom ag éisteacht leis an gceol aoibhinn sin agus ag iarraidh a dhéanamh amach cén fáth gur bhronn Dia a leithéid de bhinneas ar chlanna na n-eite agus na ngob agus d’fhág sé an chlann daonna mar atáid.
It was certainly a bad bargain – and I’m the one caught by it, a sneaky thief. I closed my eyes. I remained perfectly still, listening to that lovely music and trying to figure out why God would bestow such sweetness on the tribes of birds and wildlife, and leave the human clan as we are.
Evolving
Not far from the statue, there is another, more recent artwork being presented open to the public: A colourful butterfly at a door out of wood, painted by street artist Kelsey Montague. On Instagram, she captions the artwork with the J.K. Rowling quote that inspired her: “It’s important to remember that we all have magic inside us”. Standing in front of this butterfly, in between its wings, one will certainly feel the magic rising inside of them.
Being framed by the Eyre Square on one side and the Spanish Arch on the other, the Latin Quarter of Galway offers a rich and vivid mixture of shopping, food and relaxation. It is here where street artists meet local students and tourists from over the world. Also, a loyal companion are the seagulls of Galway who – like pigeons in other cities – are not afraid to peck at a few bites of our food. Especially near the River Corrib you won’t have to search for them, but the seagulls are searching for you. You should also make sure to check out the view over the skyline of Galway from the other side of the river, the Salthill quarter.
Reflecting about my alone-spent days in beautiful Ireland I recognized the different periods within it and how I enjoyed each of them: Walking through the town sprinkled from rain, admiring magnificent landscapes from the bus or strolling through a museum. The trip also proofed me how the magic of cities differs from the indefinite magic of nature; however, we humans need both to be fulfilled. William Butler Yeats, who is known to be the greatest poet of Ireland, once realized during his stay in the big city of London, that it is the tranquil nature where he will find peace forever. He comes to a shop window, drawn by the sound there of water splashing. Looking in, he saw a fountain on display, its upward spray buoying up a ball. This sound of water evoked memories inside of him. Reflecting about his longing for tranquillity, he writes down his enlightening in the poem The Lake Isle of Innisfree.
I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,
And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made;
Nine bean rows will I have there, a hive for the honey bee,
And live alone in the bee-loud glade.
And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,
Dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings;
There midnight’s all a glimmer, and noon a purple glow,
And evening full of the linnet’s wings.
I will arise and go now, for always night and day
I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore;
While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements grey,
I hear it in the deep heart’s core.
The poem has become an emblematic of Irish poetry and the Celtic Revival. Since 2014, its opening lines are even being featured on page 22 of Irish passports.
- Este artículo forma parte de las prácticas realizadas por los alumnos del Máster en Periodismo de Viajes de la STJ.